A Slavic Saturday Evening
The cloying perfume of incense had barely left my clothing, when the sharp smell of sauerkraut and steamed sausages suddenly invaded my nostrils with a command jolting me out of heaven and back to earth. My friend, Evan, and I attended the 5:30 P.M. Vespers service at the Russian Orthodox Cathedral of the Holy Virgin Protection on 2nd Street in the Lower East Side. Once an enclave of Eastern European immigrants, this area still boasts of a number of Ukrainian, Russian, Georgian, and Carpathian communities represented by the various churches bearing those names. Holy Virgin Protection Cathedral actually belongs to the Orthodox Church in America, the most assimilated of these communities, formerly known as the Russian Orthodox Greek Catholic Church in North America. Most all of the 105-minute long service was conducted in English, with just a few dollops of Old Church Slavonic thrown in as perhaps a reminder of the community's heritage. Every word was sung--chanted actually--includin...